ZO Skin Health's New Retinols: What Changed and Which One Is Right for You?

Retinol is one of the most researched ingredients in skincare. It boosts cell renewal, refines skin texture and helps with blemishes, fine lines and pigmentation. At the same time, many people are hesitant to use it because of redness, flaking and sensitivity in the first weeks. That is why ZO Skin Health has renewed its retinol line. In this blog I explain what has changed and which retinol suits your skin.

What's new?

All three new ZO retinols use ZO-RDS™: a liposomal delivery system. The retinol is encapsulated in tiny spheres (liposomes) that release it gradually and in a targeted way. According to ZO, this makes the retinol more stable and better tolerated, with visible results and fewer skin reactions.

All three products now contain 0.3% retinol. For two of them that is more than before (0.25%), and for Wrinkle + Texture it is less (previously 0.5%). A lower percentage does not automatically mean a weaker effect: thanks to the controlled release, the retinol is delivered more gradually, so your skin can adjust more easily.

All three are suitable for all skin types and for both new and experienced retinol users.

Which retinol is right for you?

Clear Renewal: for blemishes and clogged pores

The successor to Retinol + Blemish Complex. Alongside 0.3% retinol, Clear Renewal contains 1% salicylic acid, which gently exfoliates and helps unclog pores. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate and rosehip extract reduce excess oil, and cetyl tranexamate mesylate fades the red or dark marks left after a breakout. Bakuchiol and the antioxidant complex ZO-RRS2™ support and calm the skin.

Ideal for: blemishes, oily skin, enlarged pores and post-acne marks.

Wrinkle + Texture: for fine lines and uneven texture

The successor to Wrinkle + Texture Repair. This retinol targets fine lines, wrinkles and rough skin texture. The ZCORE® complex and the protein complex ZPRO™ support firmness and hydration, while bisabolol and beta-glucan calm the skin and provide instant comfort.

Ideal for: fine lines, loss of firmness and skin that looks tired or uneven.

Retinol Skin Brightener: for pigmentation and a dull complexion

This retinol is designed for a more even, radiant complexion. Alongside retinol it contains acetyl glucosamine and glutathione, which reduce visible discoloration. Bakuchiol and sunflower sprout extract support skin renewal, and bisabolol soothes.

Ideal for: pigmentation, uneven skin tone and dull skin.

How to build up retinol

Even with a well-tolerated retinol, building up gradually matters. My advice:

• Start every other day, in the evening after cleansing, on clean, dry skin.
• Build up to daily use once your skin responds calmly. Some tightness or light flaking in the first weeks is normal.
• Use SPF every morning. Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, and without protection you undo your results.
• Don't combine it with other strong actives, such as acids or peels, especially while building up.
• Do not use retinol during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
• Planning a treatment such as laser, a peel or microneedling? Check with us when to pause and restart your retinol.

Personal advice

Which retinol works best depends on your skin, your routine and any treatments you have. As a skin therapist and authorized ZO partner, I'm happy to create a personal protocol for you, so you get the most out of your retinol without overloading your skin.

Shop ZO Skin Health in our webshop or book your skin analysis in Amsterdam-Zuid for personal advice.